Ushuaia, ARGENTINA 26.Des 2006 54º48S 68º18W sailed dist.from Oslo 15268nm

Christmas & New Years Eve will be celebrated in Ushuaia together with other sailors. At the dock there are 15 long-distance sailboats. Half of them are from Scandinavia , but we are the only Norwegian boat … On Christmas Eve we will have a Christmas Brunch onboard Empire. All the Scandinavian boats are contributing to the table with their traditional Christmas food – with the ingredients available here in Ushuaia.
We will stay here until the new anchor winch is onboard. If the weather-forecast looks good in the first week of January we will head for Cape Horn and Antarctic. After that we will continue north along the Chilean Coast .
Budda & Anders have decided to disembark due to homesickness and are flying back to Sweden earlier than planned. Mackan is heading of for the Patagonian mountains, as planned. Thanks for the company in the not so "roaring 40´s" and "furious 50´s".

Ushuaia, ARGENTINA 17.Des 2006 54º48S 68º18W sailed dist.from Oslo 15268nm

The Worlds Southernmost city – Ushuaia

After 10 days under sail from Mar del Plata , in surprisingly easy wind, we came to the Beagle Canal . Even in the dangerous Le Maire Strait the sea were flat and calm winds. On our way to Ushuaia we had a pit stop in Puerto Harberton by Estancia Harberton. After fighting against the kelp around the anchor for an hour we sailed to Ushuaia.
In Ushuaia we could see that most of the Scandinavian boats were here. Cabo de Hornos, Lindisfarne and Yaghan welcomed us. Yesterday Sawubona came and Wildrose is just around the corner. After to days of toasting we are ready to do some work. The Anchor winch is not working, the rudder bearings are a bit wobbly and need an inspection and the giver to the log need to be changed. Most of the time the log shows 0 but we have reach a top speed of 250 knots…

In the Beagle Canal, Ushuaia
to the right
A normal day in the
Curious dolphins mmh... pancakes KELP!!!
St. Lucia pancakes Albatross on the hook Harberton Estancia

DAY 9 - 13. Des 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position 54º42S 64º52W
Sailed dist.
1124nm. Dist. to Ushuaia 130nm.
Our position at 0800 was exactly in the middle of The Strait of Le Maire , at the tip at the eastern end of Tierra del Fuego . During the night we have had good winds, with winds from about west, at 10-13m/s. The speed has been between 7 and 8 knots. A day ago it looked
like we would pass through the Strait of Le Maire at high water at about 1200 today. Now
we instead entered the Strait of Le Maire at about 0630, wind good wind and good speed.
The current changed direction at about 0830, so now we are doing a speed of only 3 knots. Dolphins and pinguins are swimming along the boat and in the air the albatross is the king.
The weather is still beautiful, but cold.

DAY 8 - 12. Des 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position 51º46S 65º21W
Sailed dist.
968nm. Dist. to Ushuaia 270nm.
We are in the Furious Fifties, heading for Estrecho de le Maire. The sun is shining and we
are doing a speed of 7 knots. We hope to reach The Strait of Le Maire tomorrow around 12,
if the wind stays. It is about 60nm from Le Maire to the Beagle Canal.
After the last days we are quite shore that Anders & Budda should not participate in any
chef competition, maybe if the task was cakes & bread…? Wonder what they will serve for lunch and dinner today..?

DAY 6 - 10. Des 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position 47º54S 62º58W
Sailed dist.
698nm. Dist. to Ushuaia 550 nm.
We are doing a speed of 7 knots with a reduced genoa and the 2. reef in the mainsail. The
sun is shining. At night it is bright and clear with millions of stars. The car tire hose is still
doing the job and the mood is good onboard. Mackan is done with his sail theory. Now he
is ready for sailing in practice. Anders is taking his turn in the galley the next 3 days. We
have not got any fish so far, only Albatross'… - Budda has saved them from the line.

DAY 4 - 8. Des 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position 43º49S 61º04W
Sailed dist.
420 nm. Dist. to Ushuaia 790 nm.
We had a warm and good northerly wind most of the day, 10-12m/s. There has been several whales around the boat. Some of them were very queries and gave us some exiting moments. At night the wind increased for a few hours, and we could see lightning in the horizon. In the morning the wind left us and the engine is now running. The barometer has fallen with 10mb
from yesterday, it is now 1004mb. So far the days has been sunny and warm. Even at night
it the temperature is not to bad.

DAY 3 - 7. Des 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position 41º00S 51º07W
Sailed dist.
271 nm. Dist. to Ushuaia 940 nm.
A beautiful day in "The Roaring Forties". At the moment no wind, but a large scoll of playing Dolphins. Mackan is doing a great job as The Chef. Pizza last night. There has been almost
no wind throug the night either, so the engine has been running. The wind is promised to increase during the day. All crewmembers are fit for fight. Budda is in business, thanks to seasickness plaster behind his ear.

DAY 2 - 6. Des 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position 40º00S 58º16W
Sailed dist.
105 nm. Dist. to Ushuaia 1150 nm.
We left Mar del Plata yesterday at 12 noon. The sun was shining and the weather forecast promised good winds from NE, 8-10m/s. The car tire hose looks good around the
rudderstock, and no water is coming in - so far. It is good to be under sail again. Fullmoon,
lots of bright stars and dolphins during the night.

Mar del Plata, ARGENTINA 5.Des.2006 38º02S 57º31W sailed dist.from Oslo 14018nm
Ushuaia next - we are back on the road again !
We CAN NOT thank DHL that we now are ready to
head for Ushuaia. DHL has not a high value as a transportation company!!
Our spare parts are stuck in the customs in Buenos Aires . According to DHL it can take 14 days, lots of money and trouble to get them out. In that case the Captain also in person has to take the bus to Buenos Aires , 5 hours by bus each way… DHL should have known and could have told us this before the spare
parts left Norway !
We have repaired the leak with an air tube for a car
tire. The sealing is now completely waterproof – we
only wonder for how long. Many thanks to Bavaria
owner Trond Åsvoll in Norway . He read about our problem on the web and gave us a good tip by e-mail.
In Ushuaia we will have crew from Norway onboard. Hopefully we then also get the “real” parts onboard.
The rudder was mounted back in the boat yesterday. About noon today we will set of directly for Ushuaia (unless the weather will decide something else).
South Georgia is out of the question for now. We
hope we will get the opportunity to sail there some
other time.
A hose for a car tire should do
the job until we get to Ushuaia
The rudder on it´s way back where it belong
Mar del Plata, ARGENTINA 1.Des.2006 38º02S 57º31W sailed dist.from Oslo 14018nm
Synderen, en rusten fjær...
Vi senket roret for å komme til

Back in Mar del Plata

At 10 Thursday morning Empire was again in mar del Plata . It was 2 days since we decided to return to Argentina . The formalities and the paperwork was done by 1300, and at 1600 the rudder was lying on the pontoon next to the boat. When we took out the simmering we could see that the steel spring was broken. It was only 6 months since we changed it in Trinidad . Another type of tightening is on its way with DHL from Lunde Båt A/S in Norway. We follow its movements on internet, and hope that it will be here soon – and without any delays and bureaucratic hassle in Argentina.

Meanwhile we have to dig out our summer clothes again. We did not know that they will be in use so short time after we packed them away.

Mar del Plata, ARGENTINA 24.Nov.2006 38º02S 57º31W sailed dist. from Oslo 14018nm
What is it like at South Georgia? WEB CAM on SOUTH GEORGIA

Chart over the souther part of the Atlantc, where we are going to spend the next months. South Georgia is the first stop, 1300nm from Mar del Plata. After that we will head for Ushuaia and the Antarctic. Onboars is also 3 Swedish friends Budda, Mackan & Anders. They are sailing with us for the next 2 months. If the weather and winds are good we hope to be in Ushuaia for Christmas and New Years Eve. There we will wait for good weather for our next stop - Antarctic.

RETURN : 26. Nov 2006 - kl 1100 UTC -3. Position41º30S 54º15W,
ikke lenger på vei mot Sør Georgia.
Utseilt dist.
264nm. Dist. to Sør Georgia 1053 nm.
The wind has increased and we had a good speed. But more water are coming in through the rudderstock. We have decided that we don´t want to continue to the scary waters of the south and at the same time have to empty the ship for water when the weather is getting worse. The water in the ship is not a security problem for the ship or the crew, but we don´t want to spend our time emtying the ship for water. We return to Mar del Plata to try to find a solution to the problem. Crew, Mate and The Captain are doing well. The course is now changed with 180 degrees... Restriction on mineral and fresh water is no longer an isue.
26. Nov 2006 - kl 0800 UTC -3. Position41º14S 54º20W, on our way to South Georgia. Utseilt dist. 244nm. Dist. to Sør Georgia 1073 nm.
It is a great spirit onboard and the speed is good. Finaly the wind is here and the ship is doing 7 knop right agianst South Georgia. There is a small amaount of water coming in through the rudderstock, but it si not a problem.

25. Nov 2006 - kl 1200 UTC -3. Position 38º02S 57º31W South Georgia next...
sailed dist.
130nm dist. to Sør Georgia 1177 nm
It has been a soft start for our new crew members. It has been almost flat sea and little wind. We expect more to come... An Albatross got caught by the fishing line but managed to get away when the line got stuck in the wind propell.
24. Nov 2006 - kl 1300 UTC -3. Position 38º02S 57º31W Mar del Plata
sailed dist.
0nm dist. to Sør Georgia 1300 nm

Heidi & Eivind + our friends Budda, Mackan and Anders
Mar del Plata, ARGENTINA 22.Nov.2006 38º02S 57º31W sailed dist. from Oslo 14018nm

Budda, Mackan and Anders has signed on the ship and all their gear has found its place. Tomorrow we will shop for the last greenery and fresh food and fill the diesel cans.
We are looking at the weather forecast every day. The last week there has been a huge L in the southern part of the Atlantic . It has pushed the lows south of our course and looks good for us. If this weather continues it looks like we are leaving on Thursday or Friday to South Georgia 1300nm southeast of us.
The Swedish boat Cabo dos Hornos with Captain Lennart and his crew Bosse sat sail for Ushuaia this morning. Vi hope to see them in Ushuaia for Christmas.


Våre nærmeste naboer i havnen
i Mar del Plata

I fiskebåt havnen i Mar del Plata er det en stor koloni med Sør Amerikanske sjøløver
Mar del Plata, ARGENTINA 14.Nov.2006 38º02S 57º31W sailed dist. from Oslo 14018nm

We are in Mar del Plata almost at 40ºS, after 2 days great sailing from Buenos Aires . The Mate can report 3 fishes of unknown type, an invasion of flies and a few liters of saltwater under the floorboards – so far unclear where it came from.
The days are getting longer. Already at 5 in the morning the sun is about to light the sky, at quarters to 6 a new day is born. In the evening the sun doesn't go down before eight. More daylight, less time in bed and more time for other things.
It is only a few things left in the category 1 “have to do” list. But there are always enough in category 2 or 3 if we have some spear time. In about a week Budda, Anders & Mackan sign up on the crew list. Then we will be ready for South Georgia as soon as the weather forecast looks good.


The Captain was taking part in
the traditional Sailors Party in
Oslo - but from Mar del Plata

Eivind & Heidi Rio de la Plata Mar del Plata
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA 7.Nov.2006 34º26S 58º21W sailed dist. from Oslo 13740nm

We had to stay some extra days in Buenos Aires, beause another low pressure and another cold-front had to pass. The comming weater now looks good. The plan is to leave Buenos Aires wednesday morning, with course for Mar del Plata, about 300nm southeast of Buenos Aires.
Because of the postponed departure Bjørnar missed the sailing to Mar del Plata. As this is written, he is on the flight on his way home, after his 7.th visit onboard Empire.
Heidi´s birthday was celebrated the 4. of November. The Captain served his very SPECIAL WORLD FAMOUS homemade chokolate cake.


The day was celebrated, and she
does not look a year older than....

Eivind, Heidi & Bjørnar ready for a night downtown Buenos Aires. "The Ladies Bridge" -
Calatrava 2001
Puerto Madero Yacht Club - our home the last month.
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA 29.Oct.2006 34º26S 58º21W sailed dist. from Oslo 13740nm

Buenos Aires is a great city an we enjoy it on the 4. week in Argentina. Bjørnar is onboard for the 7. time since we left Oslo. Mum Vigdis and Dad Tore has left us after 14 days onboard Empire.
We probably go to Mar del Plata by the end of this week. The last weeks here in BA we have been working on the boat to get it ready for the journey further south, with good help from Tore, Vigdis & Bjørnar. Tips and info from good boat neighbours about where to get what has been useful. It is the first time that we have seen that the "to do" list has been so small that fast.
The heater is finished, tested and ready >>>

A lot of equipment is loaded and day by day we continue to fill the food storage. In Mar del Plata we have to do the last finish. Before the course is set towards South Georgia.

Buenos Aires - Puerto Madera
by Night.

Dad Tore and Eivind is putting together a new shelf á la Tore Carpentery. Tore and Bjørnar is making drums for 400 m of rope. 5 drums of flotable mooring rope.
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA 22.Oct.2006 34º26S 58º21W sailed dist. from Oslo 13740nm

We are back in Buenos Aires and Puerto Madero after a little excursion over the river to Uruguay . Colonia de Sacramento is a calm, charming and beautiful town. The little town is a big contrast to Buenos Aires . Here the car stops for the pedestrians and the noise is totally different. – here the birds does not have any problems to pip higher than the traffic.
It is very strange to sail on Rio de la Plata . The echo sound was never more than 9m and for most of the time between 4 and 5m when we crossed the river.
The spring is about to make its entrance on this side of equator. The threes are getting greener every day and the sun is shining. The birds are trying to make a nest in our boom, buth the Captain has put a stop for uninvited guests.
The diesel tank for our oven is mounted and soon we will test it…

Regatta on Rio de la Plata,
Buenos Aires is visible in the

Colonia is great place for people with special interest in old cars The national dish in Uruguay, beef with cheese, ham and egg... The old town of Colonia de Sacramento in Uruguay is on the Unesco list
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA 15.Oct.2006 34º26S 58º21W sailed dist. from Oslo 13690nm

The mainsail was damaged,
when one of the battens came
loose from the car when we
were setting a reef.

The time in Buenos Aires is mostly spent by preparing the boat for the south. Extra chain and 440meters with rope is carried onboard. Insulation around the heater is in place and the mainsail has been repaired and reinforced, and much, much more.
We have also spent some time being tourists. The slaughter area Los Matadores with market and good food was well worth a visit. Tango dance in the streets of Boca was also a nice experience.
Heidi's parents is visiting us. When they get rid of the jet-leg, we will take Empire for a ride in the chocolate colored water of Rio de la Plata.
The summer in Buenos Aires is getting closer, and the temperature is rising. Several low pressures are still coming with cold fronts, that is making it a bit chilly in between.
We often get to know nice local people, and we like it here i Buenos Aires. Even though the city among others is rated high on the list of most noisiest cities...

Lunch is being prepares at Los Matadores. Saturday-tango around midday in Boca. "Gaucho" - a precision riding contest. More street dancing in Boca.
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA 06.Oct.2006 34º26S 58º21W sailed dist. from Oslo 13690nm

After exactly 8 days at sea and 1115nm we reached Buenos Aires . It was strange to sail the last part along Rio de la Plata. For more than a day we could see 4 to 10 meters on the echosounder, and land was gone in the fog. The last day we had 16 m/s from behind and the seas was quite choppy in the shallow river.
During the voyage the water temperature is now 10 degrees colder than in Rio de Janeiro, and the air is much more fresh. On the way up the river it was not the dolphins who welcomed us, but some seals looking at us with their heads above the water.

The marina we stay in is situated in the middle of Buenos Aires and reminds us a bit of Aker Brygge in Oslo , just bigger and more well done.

Lennart in the swedish boat Cabo dos Hornos Finally a fish on the hook... ... and it was Atlantico Bonita for dinner Heidi is making the Argentine courtesy flag
Rio de Janeiro, BRAZIL - ARGENTINA

1. October 2006 kl 1200 UTC -3, sailed 810 nm from Rio de Janeiro
Position 34
º07' 1 S, 51º 56' 1 W
Wind NE, 10m/s. 13 degrees Celsius in the sea. We are closing in on the entrance to River de la Plata. Nice winds and good boatspeed, even though we are sailing only with trysail and genoa. When we were standing at the bow last night looking at the sea, it looked as if we were sailing on a carpet of Dolphins. When we were looking aft, we could see even more Dolphins swimming through the water as self-illuminating torpedoes. The small planctons in the sea were illuminating so much, that we almost had to wear sunglases even at night. A 2 kg Atlantic Bonita is today transformed into delicious fishcakes.
29. September 2006 kl 1200 UTC -3, sailed 555 nm fra Rio de Janeiro
Position 30
º28'9 S, 48º57' 2 W
Wind SSE 6-10m/s. 17 degrees Celsius in the sea. Sailing with trysail and genoa.Got a beautiful Yellowfin Tuna. It will be several dinners for 2.
28. September 2006 kl 1200 UTC -3, sailed 422 nm from Rio de Janeiro
Position 29
º10'5 S, 47º19' 2 W
Wind N 10-12m/s. 166 nm last 24 hours. Sun during the day, a bit chilly at night. 20 degrees Celsius in the sea. No fish... Learning Spanish.

26. September 2006 kl 1200 UTC -3, sailed dist 91 nm from Rio de Janeiro
Position 24
º13'1 S, 43º48' 1 W
We left Rio de Janeiro monday evening in fog, rain and no wind. We went for motor all night. In the morning, together with the sun, the wind came from SSE 5-7m/s. Good to be under sail again.

We have checked out of Brazil and hope to leave on Monday for Argentina and Buenos Aires , ca 1200nm from Rio de Janeiro . After 4 months I Brazil we are ready for new adventures, a new country and language. It is about time to take a look at the Spanish course again.
The Lows from the south comes regularly with cold winds. We hope to find and opening which can give us a push southwards before the next Low is coming. We look forward to see Vigdis & Tore again in Buenos Aires.

20 20, 30 10, 27 for the 14. time, or was it 40...
The sun is shining, 27 degrees and no wind.
Heidi, for the first time in a helicopter Eivind, talking with Oslo on the big day The birtday present from Børre & Espen was a helicopter tour around Rio
Rio de Janeiro,BRAZIL- 14. sept 2006 22.55S 43.10W sail dist. from Oslo 12575nm

Rio de Janeiro

After great Humpback Whale-experiences at Abrolhos, we sailed via Vitória, Guarapari and Búzios to Rio. We celebrated Brazil's Independence Day 7. September at Búzios.
Our crew, Børre and Espen is ahving a great time onboard, and are enjoying Brazil and nice sailing. As the good tourists we are, we have seen the Christ-statue and the Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. Some more touristplaces are to be seen in the coming days...
Rio is a biiig city. The price level is about twice as high as elswhere we have been in Brasil. The summer is cathing up with us, and the dunes have been put away again.
Our Brazilian friend Bruno, that we meet at Becuia in January, showed up onboard today. We are looking forward to some local sight-seeing and dinner with Bruno and his wife at Saturday.

It is fantastic to arrive in Rio by
the sea, the Sugar Louf ahead

Heidi Eivind Børre Espen
Vitoria, BRAZIL - 28. August 2006 20.18S 40.17W sailed dist. from Oslo 12234nm

In the sea of whales…. 2

The choice was easy when the wind turned and came from the South a few days after Børre and Espen arrived in Vitoria – ABROLHOS.
A small group of islands and reefs 200nm north of Vitoria. The islands are a national park and you are not allowed to enter, except from at one island, and then only with a guide. We did not sail there to take a walk. It is the water that fascinates us. Lots of fishes, turtles and of course the humpback whale who come here to give birth and relax. A humpback whale can be up to 30 tonns and 16 m long, that is BIG. Especially when the whale turns up right beside the boat… Espen and Børre got their life sail experience so far – sun, lots of whales, wind from behind 10-14m/s and great surfs

If Heidi only had seen how
close the whale was...

A humpback whale who says hello with its tale 50 m from Empire The guys, no whales but lots of fishes and turtles A big humpback whale between the swedish boat and Empire
Vitòria, BRAZIL - 16. August 2006 20.18S 40.17W sailed dist. from Oslo 11484nm

In the sea of whales…

On our way from Itaparica to Vitoria we had several stops. Morro de Sao Paulo was a tourists village
without cars and the narrow roads where of sand.
Just nearby we found Galeao, a little sleepy fishing village where both we and the people living there were
as curious on each other. Here everything is slow motion and the fishermen use the old techniques and canoes made of huge trees.
Abrolhos were 350 nm further south, a group of
islands and reefs were whales come too breed.
We saw several whales who splashed big skies of water, playing whales jumping and smashing with
their tales. On our way to Vitoria whales followed
us all the way. It is a bit scary to see the big
animals playing in the water but at the same time
we would like to have a closer look at them – just
not to close…

It was easier to take a picture
ofEivind making a video of the

Morgenglory from Abrolhos Morro de Sao Paulo just before the sun is going down In Galeao they still use the old fishing methods
Itaparica, BRAZIL - 2. August 2006 12.53S 38.41W sailed dist. from Oslo 10951nm

Time to let go again…
New record, the Captain was pleased when Capitania dos Portos managed to complete the paperwork within 7 minutes. We are now allowed to sail to the next state in Brazil . Eivinds lines were “Vela (sailboat) Salvador , Bahia – Bye bye”, followed by a big smile and laughter from the strict port captain.
We have had a nice month at Itaparica outside Salvador . Empire is a little bit new with the Dickinson heater onboard and we have met lots of nice people. Some we hope to meet again further south.
After all the work onboard it was great with a tour to the mountains and Lencois, a village in the national park Chapada Diamantina. A perfect week with nice walks and beautiful nature, good for the body and mind (letter soon to come…)
Tomorrow, Empire is heading further south to Morro de Sao Paulo. Within 14 days we will be in Vitoria where Børre & Espen will join us for a month sail along the Brazilian coast.

Eivind is climbing the rig
for an inspextion.

Pictures from the Chapada Diamantina, a national park west of Salvador . We went on a holiday to see some more of mainland Brazil together with Trom from the Norwegian boat Embla.
Itaparica, BRAZIL - 17. July 2006 12.53S 38.41W sailed dist. from Oslo 10951nm
  Itaparica, Brasil - Dickinson oven

We have got a new friend onboard – a Dickinson oven Suppose that we will get to know each other quite well as we sail further south.
The last weeks we have been working with new and old projects onboard. Eivind has rebuilt the sofa to make space for the new oven, reeinforced the area around the pullers and we have been looking for a leak in the fore cabin. He has also climbed the rig as a routine inspection. Heidi has worked behind the sewing machine and made new cushions for the sofa, 22 covers for the diesel cans, new covers for the fenders and some minor repairs.
In a few days we head of for Lencois and Chapada Diamantina, 6 hours by bus from Salvador. Chapada Diamantina is a national park with a dozens of rivers, mountains, caverns and waterfalls. And a 30 meter long water slide...
The Dickinson oven

The Empire saloon before and after Dickinson

More pictures from the work

Salvador, BRAZIL- 30. June 2006 12.58S 38.31W sailed dist. from Oslo 10925nm

Itaparica, Brazil
Gary and Linda have left the boat after 3 weeks onboard. We have had lots of nice days together and look forward to see them again on another ocean.
Empire is now at Itaparica, 15 nm west of Salvador in the bay Bahia de todos os Santos . We will stay here for some days to enjoy life and do some work onboard. Project “oven” is about to start. Eivind will mount the chimney and prepare the diesel hose. Maybe we will have time to mount the whole oven. It is strange to work and think about this while the temperature is like a good Norwegian summer. While we are further south we will have the pleasure of the oven.
It is sad that Brazil lost the game against France in VM. Even with our micro interest in football it has been fun to watch Brazil play. Brazilieans are crazy! We looked forward to see the final match with Brazil playing, on a big screen with lots of people. But it will not happen now…

The scandinavian corner on
Itaparica one swedish and two
norwegian boats

Quite normal on the beaches of Itaparica

Salvador dressed for football VM Linda & Gary had only minor problems to fit all their shoping into their bag
Salvador, BRAZIL- 21. June 2006 12.58S 38.31W sailed dist. from Oslo 10925nm

From Recife to Maceio through the backdoor.
After the millioncity Recife , we wanted to see a smaller place. The pilot books told us that Maceio could be a nice city to visit. We stayed there for to days, and that was enough. The pilot books don't tell that you are entering Maceio through its backdoor. We anchored in a bay with brown, smelly water and clay bottom. To get to the Yacht Club where we could leave the dingy, we had to walk over a muddy beach full of garbage.The Yacht Club is situated between to favala (slum-) camps, and the beach was looking bad. It was smelling terrible and we almost had to throw up, when we were walking across the beach. No one were able to tell us that this was a place to stay…
Gary watched his footballmatch, and Linda had one sunny day at the city-beach. Then we left. We had seen enough of Maceio 's dirty entrance.
We were short of detailed maps along the coastline, so we sailed straight to Salvador de Bahia. The new crew Linda and Gary, got two rough days at sea. We had gale force wind from south, so we had to tack our way to Salvador . On the watches off duty, Gary had the feeling of being inside a washing machine…

Salvador ready for football and

The garbage-beach of Maceio.

After a day in the city of Maceio, it was no pleasure entering the dinghy

Recife - 1.June 2006
08.04S 34.52W sailed dist. from Oslo 10375nm

Tobago to Brazil

We had a nice voyage from Tobago to Fernando de Noronha , 18 ½ days and 2135nm. After five great days at Fernando, we headed of for Recife . 2 days and 314nm later we were well tied up at Cabanga Iate Club, the 29.May. The last part up the river was rather shallow, but on the second try we made it… After 2 days with paperwork we could finally lower the yellow flag.
The voyage from Tobago to Fernando went easier than expected and we managed to avoid the strong current. Some times we even had the current with us, up to 2 knots.
So far the people of Brazil , also those from the authorities, are the nicest, most friendly and helpful people we have met on our journey. That 99% of the people only speak Portuguese, and we don't, only make the “conversation” more colorful with arms and body movements, and pen and paper…
We are now looking forward to explore Brazil and South America . We also look forward to sail in more chilly areas. 32 degrees Celsius all day, all the time, is actually a bit hot…

Fernando de Noronha

Eivind in resting position Turtle skeleton - there are 2 types of 2 threatened turtle species on FdeN Sergent Major - they swim together, love bread and bites
21.May 2006 - kl 22 UTC - sailed distance 2135 nm
Position 03.49.8S 32.24.4W Dist. to Fernando de Noronha 0nm
After 18 and a half day at sea we arrived at Fernando de Noronha late at night. We had hoped to drop the hock while it was still daylight, but some angry showers together with variable current and wind delayed us. Despite all remonstrance, thinking off our choice of route, we have had a great voyage without any unpleasant surprises from Tobago to
Brazil .

We look forward to go ashore and to have some calm days here before we head for Recife in the beginning of June.
19. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
1819 nm
00.26.9S 35.39.3W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
We passed equator around midnight and are now sailing in the south. King Neptun came on a short visit to give us a glass of “linjeakevitt”. Not much wind, going by motor.
18. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
1701 nm
00.40.9N 37.14.3W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Great celebration of the Norwegian National Day, at sea. Eivind played the trumpet – Ja vi elsker, it was a quite small parade this year… We had hoped to cross equator to day, but the wind was to weak and the course “to bad”, we were set further NW most off the day.
16. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
1482 nm
00.37.9N 40.26.7W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Almost got a big dolphin fish, but we lost it. Wind from NE, the current is with us and the sun is shining.
14. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
1248 nm
03.59.9N 44.04.8W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
4 hours on, 4 hours off, 4 hours on.... Lots of time to be good to eachother, read a book, sleep, some repairs, workout, prepare food, fishing and the spanish course..
12. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
1001 nm
06.20.4N 47.3128W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Got a big Wahoo on the hock, 6 kg - many dinnersw for 2. Cloudy and 7-10 m/s from NØ a little current.
11. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
864 nm
07.26.1N 49.31.8W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
"Sjakkel" on bb running back stay broke suddenly, temporary repaired. Great wind and good progress.
10. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
729 nm
08.13.8N 51.34.3W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
We have passed Guyana and Suriname, Empire is 200 nm north of the border between French Guyana and Brazil.
9. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
596 nm
09.21.3N 53.21.5W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Life is great :) Lost 3 fish and 2 hocks
8. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
462 nm
10.12.3N 55.20.6W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Got 2 tuna, seen 3 ship, the sun is shining and we have had good winds the last days.
6. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
223 nm
11.43.5N 58.09.5W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
We had a visitor last night. A bird dropped by for a power nap on the bimini top.
5. May 2006- kl 1200 UTC
116 nm
11.25.5N 59.29.1W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Empire is tackingeast, wind 5-7 m/s and 2 knop current against us. We have made a new sunsail which can be ued while we are tacking and got one tuna on thew hock.
3. May 2006 - Posisjon
11.09.48 N 60.50.46 W
Dist. to Fernando de Noronha
Empire is lying low in the water with 20 extra diesel cans onboard. Vi hope that it will be
a good insurance for favorable winds and currents…
Empire are heading for Fernando de Noronha in Brazil 1900 nm south east from Tobago .
We hope to make the voyage in 4 weeks, but we will have to fight with the current and the
winds along the coast. It is difficult to estimate the arrival.
We will try to update the web sites with our position and the distance to Brazil . The
satellite tlf will be turned on most of the time, so it is possible to get in touch with us.
For those who knows us back home and would like to say hello, get in touch with Tore
& Vigdis if you don't have our satellite number.

Store Bay, Tobago - 26. April
11.09 N 60.50 W Sailed dist.- Oslo 7926nm

During Easter Empire has been full of visiting friends.
At the most we were 6 adults and 3 children. We have mostly been anchored in Store Bay , but we also had
a nice trip to Charlotteville, at Tobago 's northwest
coast. If we had more time, we would have spent
some more days in this peaceful fishing village.
On our way back to Store Bay we got a nice una on
the hook. Tai made the Tuna on to a very good dinner.
We have also been bathing and fishing, we have seen
the famous Tobago Goat Race at Bucco Bay and we
have been at The Plymouth Jazzfestival and hear Sting play for a big audience. The Captain has been a short
trip to Trinidad to pick up the new smaller genoa. We
also went sailing one of the days, to test out the new genoa. It seems to be very good. The ship is also
slowly getting ready for the looong voyage to
Fernando de Noronha at the east cape of Brazil .
We plan to sail from Store Bay in the beginning of
May. In a straight line it will be a distance of 1900nm,
but we will have the current and the wind in the nose…
We hope to be at Fernando de Noronha within 4 to 6 weeks.

Bathing nymphs... Herman, Peder and HP in "the bathtub".
Walking in the Tobago rainforrest It is always fun when the dolphins come alongside he boat - they are beautiful animals. Torbjørn got a big Wahoo on the hook. This is the Wahoo, and it was a lovely dinner.
  Chaguaramas, Trinidad- 9. of April
10.40 N 61.29 W Sailed distance from Oslo 7807nm

We are back in Trinidad, for the 4.th time.
Tore and Vigdis have been onboard for the last 14 days, and they have seen what life is like, onboard our ship while we are cruising in the Caribbean.
During 4 night voyages we have sailed 300nm. We have seen Grenada (again), Tobago and Trinidad . And we have seen Dolphins, Iguanas, turtles and Howlers, and also lots of different birds. The reason for the many visits to Chaguaramas is that we have been waiting for a package from Dickinson Marine, containing an oven. But the slow handling from Dickinson led to these several visits. Now the oven is onboard, thoug not mounted… It is a bit strange thinking of an oven now, when it is 30 degrees Celsius…
This evening we head for Store Bay and Tobago again.
Iguana is good eating in Trinidad...

“Fresh” Flying Fish is delicious for breakfast.

Tore and Vigdis are enjoying the life onboard Empire and on Tobao.

Maybe not the world's best palm climber – yet…

Chaguaramas, Trinidad - 23. of Mars 2006
10.40 N 61.29 W sailed distance from Oslo 7500nm


Dad & Heidi wish you a plesant day - the celebration will be in Chaguaramas, Trinidad.
Empire is back in the water, after 5 days on the hard. Antifouling and polishing the hull and more, she is now ready for the coming parts of the tour. Peder said it was a bit like living in an appartement as we had to climb the ladder to get on to the ship. The facilities are good at Power Boat, but Emire likes it best at sea.
Peder is sending his best regards to everyone back home, that do not have the possibility to be here to celebrate his birthday.
Seee... DELFINER!!!
At last - the boat is ready... Numbers and letters are fun with flags. Lovely waves and nice temperature Peder and Joshua checking that everything is done correctly

Isla Margarita, Venezuela - 12. of Mars
10.57N 63.49 W sailed distance from Oslo 7271nm

It was sad to say good bye to Vanvara at Isla Margarita. They are heading for Cuba- we are heading for Trinidad and later Brasil... The days in Venezuelan territory have been exciting and enjoyable. The best part was a 4X4 wheel tour around the hole island, including boat trip in the mangroves, bathing at Punta Arenas and some Jeep massage. The vehicle was a Dodge from 1944, only the chassis was a bit original. It was a memorable tour for Vanvara and Empire.
Los Testigos is a group of beautiful islands east of Isla Margarita. Only 160 people live here, and there is no facilities as electricity or other fashion things. But the water is crystal clear, lots of birds around, sand dunes, cactuses and not many other yachties. We had a barbeque at the beach, and we had a nice walk on shore between cactuses and iguanas. We did some bathing and Jørgen tried to make gun powder to his canon. It ended out not so successfully. The powder would not burn...

Peder is a skilled climber
Sand dunes at Los Testigos Peder and Eivind challenging the waves Vanvara viewed from the top of Empire's mast, Los Testigos

Trinidad - Chaguaramas ( 27. of February 2006 )

Peder and Bjørnar have embarked. Last evening in Store Bay we waved “See you soon” to Snorre. They headed north to the accompaniment of the Norwegian National anthem. Captain Eivind thought it was a good opportunity to play the trumpet. It was a bit sad to say “good bye” to Helge and Maggen onboard Snorre – hope to see them soon again. More days like this will come – most of the yacht we have met and have become friends with, are in the coming weeks heading north or west. And Empire will soon head south…
We are on Trinidad , to take part in the traditional Carnival, the worlds second largest (The worlds biggest Carnival, according to the Trinis). And it is really big. Costumes are produces all over the island, steel band are playing many places, and there are soca competitions several places.
We are looking forward to the big main Parade on Tuesday.

Empire & Snorre at sunset,
Store Bay, Tobago.
Eivind gets some steel pan instruction Peder and Maggen Costumeproduction for the Cartnival 27. and 28. of February Internet and laundry Cafe...
Tobago - Store Bay ( 15. of February 2006 )

Empire dropped the anchor at the most beautiful place so far, Tobago and Store Bay . Some of you back in Norway do have something to look forward to, this is a beautiful place for young and not so young. There is a lot of Norwegian sail yachts here. Last counting said it was 7 Norwegian only in Store Bay . Some of the yachts are on their way north, but Vanvara and Empire are heading for Trinidad and the traditional Carnival, starting in the end of February.
At Grenada we joined the celebration of the Independence Day, 7. of February. We had looong breakfast together with Anne and Jørgen from Vanvara, later we walked to the playground nearby, to see the parades and listen to the speeches, and eat some ice cream… We almost got the feeling of 17. of May..
We also had a day tour round the island. Now we know a lot more about cacao, Muscat , bananas, and about the damages after hurricane Ivan in 2004.
We are looking forward to meet Peder and Bjørnar, who are coming to visit us. The land at Tobago in a few days.

Tobago and Store Bay
- we can recomend it

Eivind's Duracell batteries is functioning well, also in these warm sourondings. Happy Birthday, Jørgen, Captain Shrek, Vanvara
Grenada ( 3. of February 2006 )

The family Holm has left us. They flew home to snow and long underwear... We have had 2 eventful and enjoyable weeks in their company.
Tobago Cays was on its best. We had some lovely days with sun, bathing and relaxing. Unfortunately there was no lobster for dinner – the Captain bargained the prices to hard.
Union Island was the next stop, and the last stop in the St. Vincent Grenadines. Union is a slow island. We did most of the entertainment ourselves – Haldor “Paddington” Holm took care of that. In the bar at the Anchorage Yacht Club Haldor discovered a white piano, and suddenly he was the entertainer. During the dinner he was asked to play again. We last stop that evening was “The Rasta Bar” with all the tough guys. The Empire-girls all got the change to dance with a “REAL MAN”…

Small aircraft ready for landing at Union Island , quiet exciting – just behind Anchorage Yacht Club

Eivind & Haldor with a toast for Lunde Båt. Today they move into their new facilities in Leangbukta.

Fruit and vegetables. The selection is good.
Tobago Cays ( 28. of January 2006 )

After a short stay at Mystique, we have sailed further south in the Grenadines. We are now at Tobago Cays, the sun is shining and the wind is moderat...
There was a Blues Festival at Basils's Bar at Mystique, the week we got there. We tried to get Haldor on stage, but failed. But we danced and some nice tasting drinks.
Today we have been on the highest "peek" of Tobago Cays. A fantastic view. Only the Horseshoe Reef between us ant the Atlantic Ocean. We will stay here for a couple of days and enjoy the sun. Ofcourse we can also find some work to do onboard the ship, if the sun should be to hot.
BoatBoys at Tobago Cays Basils Bar at Mystique Diesel, water and laundry...


Bequia ( 24. of January 2006 )

Empire is back in Admiralty Bay, Bequia. The Crew is increased by thre 3 -
Haldor, Erna and daughter Kristin.
It has been blowing cats and dogs these days. There has been a lot of rain
dropping down around us.
It was a rough start for the just embarked crew, that were hoping for sun and
the normally warm weather of Caribean. A force 6 gale was blowing, and the
sea was bouncy when we sailed from La Soufriere, St. Lucia south to Bequia.
Now we have anchored at Becuia, and are waiting for the sun to be back.
Haldor has already got the pink colour despite of the rainy weather.


Martinique ( 19. of January 2006 )

We have been at anchor outside Le Marin, Martinique for the last days. The bay can be
compared with the " Dinner Bay " back in Norway , multiplied by 100, if we count the boats.
Martinique is a French island. They speak nothing but French, the currency is €uro, and the
roads have good standards and they are driving on the right side of the road.
We have been using the opportunity to do some shopping, to the fridge and to the ship...
When we arrived Martinique we were more than the two of us onboard – cockroaches.
We now hope that we are only two remaining onboard. We closed down the ship and left for a day. Under deck we left two cockroach-bombs… During the day we saw Martinique and Little Paris by car. Little Paris , or more correctly St. Pierre , today, was in 1902 destroyed by a volcano.
We have seen no cockroaches since…

St. Lucia ( 13. of January 2006 )

After Christmas- and New Year celebration in the Grenadines , we are now back in Rodney Bay . For the first time for more than two months we are only the two of us onboard. We have enjoyed the company of the crew – we have been 6 or 7 onboard since mid November – but we are now looking forward to be only the two of us for a period.
It is also a long time since last we had hose-water and 220V electricity onboard. We will use the opportunity to clean the ship and to do some maintenance. The rudder pipe is glued with epoxy, and simmering around the rudderstock has been greased. New simmering are sent from Lunde Båt. We better get it in place before we reach more southerly (colder) oceans… We have had rendezvous with the Danish boat Njord, and we all enjoyed seeing each other again.
In a few days we set of for Martinique . In the end of January Mr. Haldor, his wife and his daughter will embark. And in the middle of February Peder will be back onboard for a two month period...

Canouan ( 3. of January 2006 )

On our way to St. Lucia , we visited Canouan. We have had wonderful days at Tobago Cays, and we hope to be back pretty soon. It has been really windy in the start of the New Year, and we have had some exiting nights at anchor. We have been safely anchored with 30kg Bruce anchor and 15kg dead man hanging on the extra long chain. Some of the other boats did not anchor as safely as they should. Especially the big damned hire catamarans. They are coming in at the speed of 15 knots. They stop in front of us (always) and then they put out a small anchor and 5 meters of chain. Then hell is loose when they start dredging around – especially when this happens at night…

Vanvara and Don´t Worry are sailing south, but we hope to see them in the middle of February.

Please come with your comments and hints. We will appreciate your ideas to what you
will like to hear about - empire@sailboat.no