OLD FRONTPAGES 2007
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

New Zealand - 24. December 2007 Pos 35'43S 174'19E sailed dist. from Oslo 26594 nm

MERRY CHRISTMAS from Oslo & Whangarei

The Captain is celebrating Christmas in Whangarei, together with other sailors. He had a wonderful sail from Auckland to Whangarei, 73nm in 12 hours. The summer is on its way to New Zealand , but at the moment the weather is very unstable. First in the end of January the New Zealanders consider it to be real summer.
The Captain enjoy being back to work. Some knowledge is “lost” after 2 and a half year of sailing. The good thing is that it is slowly coming back.
Heidi is celebrating Christmas and her mothers 60 year birthday in Oslo before she fly back for New Years Eve with Eivind. She has had busy days in Oslo , working full time in an architectural office and evenings with friends. Heidi is surprised how “easy” it is to be part of the “Oslo everyday life”, but look forward to fly home to Eivind and Empire.
MERRY CHRISTMAS - Even though we are working we are still on our way. We use this opportunity to add some money to our travel case. At the same time we meet a lot of interesting people and we get to know the New Zealanders in a genuine way. Who knows – some extra money might add some months of sailing in the other end…
Eivind in Summer Auckland
Heidi in Winter Oslo
 

New Zealand - 23. November 2007 Pos 36'45S 174'45E sailed dist. from Oslo 26524 nm

Bayswater Marina, Auckland - New Zealand

We arrived Auckland one week ago. During that period we have been tourists and we have bought a car -used cars are preferably cheep in New Zealand . It is no Land Rover though, but we will probably be happy to be mobile anyway…
Our Norwegian friends in Xanadu are also berthed here, and other Pacific friends are expected to arrive in Bayswater Marina soon.
We hope to find work for some of the time we will be in New Zealand., respectively as an architect and in the boating business. A bit of work training will probably be good for us, so we don't completely forget our skills. We also expect to do some sailing around in the waters of the Northern Islands and to be tourists with car on shore, before the hurricane season comes to an end in April.
Today Peder and Heidi are flying home to Norway . Peder have been “working” onboard Empire for 7 months, and has completed the sailor-education with best results. He has gotten many new friends and is travelling to Norway with lots of good memories. The best memories are probably from our stay at the wonderful Suwarrow at Cook Islands.
Vigdis and Tore are also flying home today, after a three week long voyage together with us. Heidi will be back onboard between Christmas and New Years. Meanwhile the Captain will keep the “castle”…

Aukland Aquarium has lots of interesting animals - fun for young and for not so young.


Lovely sailing towards Auckland...

Baywater Marina, North Shore City, Auckland

Auckland skyline...
New Zealand - 12.November 2007 Pos 35'43S 174'19E sailed dist from Oslo 26445 nm

Whangarei, New Zealand
New Zealand has plenty of beautiful and good anchorages. If it was not for a big low pressure with wind up to 45 knots, we would have liked to see some more anchorages on our way south.
Whangarei, which means ”safe harbour” is in it's right name a secure harbour 15nm up river. Finally the wind did not get that strong, but the city is anyway worth a visit. Sailors on their way to New Zealand can relax and head south again after several different tactics to avoid the bog Low.
We had a memorable sail up river to Town Basin in Whangarei. There is not much sea left under Empire's keel when we could see 2m on the depth sounder. The last part of the river is like a highway for sailors. Sailboats in every size lies moored or on the hard along the river. A big part of the industry in the area caters for sailors.
In Town Basin we could see that most of the “Norwegian fleet” was gathered again. Menja, Xanadu, Villvind, Vagabond Virgin, Valkyrien and finally Empire was moored in a long row after one another.

On our way from Bay of Islands
to Whangarei we got a Kingfish
on the hook. Afterwards we have heard that the minimum size for
this is 75cm….

"Hole in the Rock" on
Motukokako Island at
Cape Brett
Empire at anchor inpunga Cove, Bay of Islands Bream Head by the approach to Whangarei Harbour
 
New Zealand - 4. November 2007 Pos Pos 35'18S 174'07E sailed dist from Oslo 26333nm

Opua, New Zealand
Our first week in a new continent has passed quickly. Opua has been a little bit warmer and sunny than when we arrived a rainy morning.
During the first week more boats has arrived from Tonga and Fiji . We have had our hands full with welcoming. When Villvind with its joyful musicians arrived everybody were tuned for a happy reunion.
Yesterday we were sailing together with the rests of the fleet in Opua, to look at the 113m warship that was going to be sunk. The ship was sunk at 25m and is supposed to be Bay of Island new diving site in Deep Water Cowe.
Now it is the Norwegian boat Valkyrien, a Leisure 22 with Øystein and Vidar onboard. Yesterday they were 115nm from Opua, empty of petrol and no wind… We cross our fingers so that they will have a little bit of wind to push them into the harbour. Last time they ran out of petrol was on their way to Galapagos. Luckily the Danish boat Margarita came out and toughed them in safety.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, HEIDI


New Zealand - 30.October 2007 Pos Pos 35'18S 174'07E sailed dist from Oslo 26333nm
 

Opua, New Zealand
… and the fish was an 11kg Albacore.
After 10 days of sailing and 1310nm, Empire sailed in to Opua early in the morning the 28. October. After an efficient and friendly clearance we headed of for Opua marina.
Bjørnar has gone from “dock-sailor” to a real ocean-sailor and has done excellent.
In New Zealand it is still spring and chilly. We think it is very cold in this well organized country. Luckily we got a warm welcome from Norwegian Xanadu and Danish Margarita. Bjørnar will soon fly back to Norway while Empire is going to stay in New Zealand for the hurricane season. What and where we are going to do, we do not know yet. But it will probably be a mix of sailing, innshore travelling and maybe some payed labour.
DAY 6
24. October kl 0800 UTC +13 Pos 28'55S 178'00Ø
Sailed dist from Tonga 789nm - dist to Opua 420nm. The last days the sea has been flat and we have only seen light winds. The water temperature is down 10 degrees since we left Tonga. During day time it is T-shirt weather but we have hunted out the warm blankets for the night.
Parts of the “Norwegian fleet” are sailing north of us, also heading for New Zealand. On the SSB radio this morning we spoke with "Villvind”, “Vagabond Virgin” and “Menja”. They had favourable winds about 300nm north of Empire.
The Captain is about to land today's catch. What and how big is unknown at the moment…
DAY 4
22.October kl 0800 UTC+13 Pos 24'49S 179'44Ø
sailed from Tonga 529nm - dist to Opua 650nm
Now we write our positions with E, not W. We sailed across the dateline yesterday evening, a few nm west of Minerva Reef. We decided to take advantage of the good winds, so there was no anchoring at Minerva.
The first two days from Neiafu gave us nice downwind sailing. The high south of us then gave southerly winds for half a day, before the wind changed to ESE.
Yesterday we caught a 12 kg Dolphin fish/Dorado, so the dinners are restaurant style. Our new newest crew Bjørnar is also having a nice time. So far he has been able to keep the seasickness away.

Neiafu - Vava´u - Tonga
Finally Tonga has showed its sunny side. The bay and islands around Vava´u is great and it is plenty of beautiful, exiting and well protected anchorages. There are still many sailboats in the area, even though many already have left for Fiji and new Zealand for the hurricane season. We plan to leave Tonga tomorrow, and we might stop at Minerva Reef on our way south.
Bjørnar has signed on for the 8. time and will sail with us the 1200nm to New Zealand , his longest leg so far.
We will use about 10 days and hopefully we will be able to update the web side during the passage.

Rainy days in Tonga

Kajaking around the island Kapa Mariners Cave Peders favourite activity.
(Dad's too...)
Tonga - 23.september 2007 Position 18 39S 173 06W sailed dist from Oslo 25016nm
  Neiafu - Vava´u - Tonga

10 great days at Suwarrow. We would have liked to stay longer on this fantastic atoll among Cook Islands . The only negative side of “sailor life” is that you have to keep on going…
It was a fast 4 1/2 day and 800 nm sail down to Vava´u. At times lot of wind and the fish were one the hook every second day before noon. We got some showers, sometimes for hours.
When we were tied up to the custom dock, the Norwegian boat Villvind dropped by with some fresh cinnamon rolls and a dinner invitation. To celebrate the birthday of Sverre Erik in the Norwegian boat Vagabond Virgin. We have now caught up with the Norwegian long distance fleet that went through the Panama Canal earlier this year. It is said to be 12 Norwegian boats in the area.
Vava'u is the second northerly island on Tonga and popular among sailors. Vaua´u has a rich and idyllic skerris with several good anchor spots which we look forward to explore.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
the 23.September
DAD EIVIND

PEDER & HEIDI
The local boats are teaching Peder some fish secrets The pier and path which leads up to "Suwarrrow yacht Club" Suwarrow is a national park and people are supposed to act thereafter Empire at Suwarrow anchorage, looks like she is the onlyone - but there were 15 more boats
Suwarro - 10.September 2007 Pos sailed dist. from Oslo 24323 nm
 

Suwarrow - Cook Islands

Suwarrow is one of the northern Cook Islands . Each year about 100 sailboats come to this beautiful and peaceful atoll. In the 50´s Tom Neale lived alone at Suwarrow over a period of 6 years. Hs has put the atoll on the map via his book "An Island to Myself" – even though he is not the only one who has lived on the island.
To day it is the Samuela family who lives here. John and Veronica lives half the year at Suwarrow together with their four children. We could not have met more welcoming and nice park watchers.
The atoll is surrounded by 25 motus and the water in the lagoon is crystal clear. At the moment it is 15 other sailboats here. We snorkel, swim, fish and enjoy the island. In the evenings we gather at the beach for barbeque and pot lock. The Samuela family are also joining, the children play at the beach while the adults enjoy the sunset around the fireplace.

The pass at Suwarrow seen from
Anchorage Island.

Peder has found some new friends at Suwarrow. There are several boats with children here. Bit most fun is it to play with the 6 year old Sameula twins.
Moorea - 26.August 2007 Pos sailed dist. from Oslo 23505 nm
   

Opunohu Bay , Moorea - Society islands

After one night at the quay in Papeete city we had had enough of car and city noise. We sailed a few nautical miles behind the protective reef to Marina Taina. At the marina it is walking distance to a big supermarket with a big variety of groceries. At anchor and in the marina there are lots of long distance sailors.
From Tahiti we crossed the Moonsea on our way to the neighbour island Moorea. By the entrance of Pounoha Bay we found a good anchorage behind the reef. The mountain peeks on Moorea just asks for a hike, and for our unexercised sailor legs necessary. It is wonderful to take a cooling bath in the turquoise water afterwards. In the beginning of this week we will continue to Cook Islands and Tonga . Then it will be another month before we are back on our usual mail.

Sunset over Moorea and the
Moonsea, Empire is anchored
at Marina Taina, Tahiti
Peder has discovered the magnificent life under water While snorkling at Thaiti we came across this air plane wreck Opunoha bay on Moorea where Captain Cook anchored
Papeete, Tahiti - 16.augus 2007 Pos 17º32S 149º34W sailed dist.from Oslo 23481nm
“THE BIG CITY” PAPEETE, French Polynesia
Many strange odors met us as we sailed through the pass to Papeete this afternoon. It has been some time since last we visited a big city.
The atoll Kauehi is the prototype of a Pacific atoll. Pearls are grown in a big scale. Some pearls ended onboard... The plan was to anchor in the atoll Taou before Papeete. Underway we changed the plan and sailed directly to Tahiti.
The Swedish boat Don Quijote left Kauehi at the same time as Empire. On the way we had a fishing competition, and it looks as if Don Quijote is going to be the winner. She has not arrived Papeete yet, but roomers say that there is fish onboard. There is no fish onboard Empire…
On the way the speed has been between 7 and 8 knots with the wind from the side. A wonderful voyage – with the wind from somewhere else than strait aft…
The last night towards Papeete we have heard repeatedly Tsunami warnings on the VHF-radio, after the earthquake that stroke Peru. A possible wave would have hit Tahiti this morning, but as far as we know, the warning was later cancelled. No wave reached these waters.
Almost as beautiful as in the
Oslofjord...

Eivind could not keep his fingers away, and had to try out the work as a pearlfarmer/diver. Peder is going to be a successful business man - one M-chokolate was traded for one pearl... The workingplatform at Tiaihau Pearls. The king of pearls at Kauehi - Mr. Tiaihau - we just called him The King" when he was not around...
Kauehi, Tuamotu - 9.August Pos 15 49S 145 07W Sailed dist. from Oslo 23178nm
 

AT ANCHOR IN KAUEHI ATOLL
We had a short stop in one of the anchorages at Tahuata, the neighbor island to Hiva Oa, before we set of for the Tuamoto archipelago. After 4 days excellent sailing with the wind astern of 90 degrees, we could throw the anchor inside the protecting reef.
The water is crystal clear and the marine life is rich. We take a look under water quiet often, as the temperature in the air is several degrees above 30
ºC.
We were a bit exited as we entered the lagoon through the pass, as this is our first visit to an atoll. The wind direction was perfect, so we could sail through the pass, and all the way north inside the lagoon to the anchorage. Some time later, the American sailboat Bahati also arrived. The last 24 hours they had been in the vicinity at sea. Two German (one of them a Bavaria 37) and one Deutch sailboat, were already in the anchorage.
We expect to stay here a few more days, before we head of for another atoll and then Tahiti. There we will fill the ship with fresh groceries and connect to e-mail and internet again. It has been quiet a long time since last we had either of those possibilities…








A big Manta Rey was swimming around Empire for a long time, after we had anchored in Hanamoenoa bay. The Captain just had to get in the water... The volleyball match later this day, between the feminine and the masculine crew from Don Quijote and Empire, was wun by "the masculine"... Spinnaker sailing over calm water in the Pacific Ocean under way to the Tuamoto archipelago..
Hiva Oa, Marquesas 29.July 2007 Pos 09º48S 139º01W sailed dist. from Oslo 22647 nm

AT ANCHOR IN TAHAUKU BAY, ATUONA
3050nm sailed over ground
2595nm sailed (Through the water)
20 days
9 fish onboard out of 25 on the hook
0 rain
sun from a clear blue sky
29 Celsius in the sea
We have arrived in French Polynesia. Empire is anchored in a quiet bay at the island Hiva Oa, one of the Marquesas islands. The voyage was wonderful. It would not have been a problem, if it lasted longer. The plan is to check in to French Polynesia at this island, but paperwork is obviously not so important here. It is not everyday that the authorities bother to lift the stamp… Our neighbors in the boat “next door”, tried to check in for three days, without success.
We will sail to the nearby island Tahauta on Monday. It is supposed to be an island with wonderful beaches and nice scenery. After that we will anchor at a couple of the atolls in the Tuamotu islands, before we arrive Papeete and Tahiti (all places still French Polynesia ).

The fish (in front), a 17 kg
Wahoo, was caught in the
Pacific on our way to Hiva Oa.
.

"Here comes Empire" - Peder is blowing the horn as we are passing the Swedish sailboat Don Quijote. The remaining of a 15,5 kg Skipjack Tuna and Peder is comparing who has the biggest mouth. "In the middle" of the Pacific Ocean we met Don Quijote, with Johan and Norwegian Inga onboard.
PACIFIC OCEAN - under sail to Marquesas and Frensch Polynesia

July 2007 - kl 1430 (UTC -9).
Position 09º48S 139º01W, Atuona, Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Sailed dist. 2595nm - Dist. to Marquesas
When the daylight came, we could see Fatu Hiva to the south and Hiva Oa right in the bow. It is amazing that it is possible to hit right at the target, after sailing 3000nm over the ground. Or maybe not, in this GPS-world… 2 German, 1 American and 2 New Zealand sailboats were already anchored in the bay Tahauku when we anchored. It will be interesting to see what is on shore.
DAY 19
25. July 2007 - kl 2000 (UTC -9). 09º21S 134º39W, under sail to Marquesas
Sailed dist. 2385nm - Dist. to Marquesas 258nm - Sailed dist. from Oslo
22437nm
We caught up with Don Quijote midday 23.July. We came to late for Inga's birthday party onboard Don Quijote. One day late we could transfer, under sail, the birthday present, pancakes with blueberry and freshly baked bread. The birthday present a self-made fish hook with wire snood was highly appreciated. They had lost their last one a few days ago. After the rendezvous in Pacific Ocean , we set full sail again. The spinnaker has been flying the last days during daylight. Life at sea is wonderful…
DAY 16
22. July 2007 - kl 2000 (UTC -9).Position 07º08S 127º42W, under sail to Marquesas
Sailed dist. 2032nm - Dist. to Marquesas 695nm - dist. from Oslo 22084nm
As if it was not enough with the catch Thursday, Friday we hooked a little Wahoo (King Fish). 17kg !!! Now we are talking about BIIIG fish. We are eating fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and we had to stop fishing for some days. Now we are fishing again... Only light winds the last days, and we have established VHF contact with the Swedish boat Don Quijote. She is about 19nm west of us. We will probably be in sight by the morning.
DAY 13
19 July 2007 - kl 2000 (UTC -8). Position 07º41S 120º35W, under sail to Marquesas
Sailed dist. 1660nm - Dist. to Marquesas 1160nm - dist. from Oslo
21712nm
If you wonder, it takes about 1 hour from the Skipjack Tuna bites on the hook, until it is brought onboard... This Thursday was the biiig fish-challenge-day. We got it onboard, and it was huge. The canned food have to wait for some more time.
DAY 10
16. July 2007 - kl 2000 (UTC -8). Position 06º32S 112º17W, under sail to Marquesas
Sailed dist. 1220nm - Dist. to Marquesas 1660nm - dist. from Oslo
21272nm
The sun is shining and life goes on. The fishing is still good. Dolphin at 3,5 kg and 2,5 kg are brought onboard. There are also some big ugly things out in the ocean, that have bitten the line off... The wind have raised the last 24 hours, and we are doing a little more than 150 nm a day. The life in the Humbolt Current is rich, and the hull has become green far above the waterline.
DAY 6
12. July 2007 - kl 2000 (UTC -8). Position 03º33S 102º19W, under sail to Marquesas
Sailed dist. 621nm - Dist. ti Marquesas 228 nm - Sailed dist. from Oslo 20673nm
It was a happy Captain and a happy crew that hoisted the mainsail at 1400 local time today. We havce also put up the cutter staysail, and we are doing good speed in the light winds. We celebrated the happening with a really nice bodywash in the 23,5 degrees warm water
.
DAY 4
10. July 2007 - kl 2000 (UTC -8). Position 02º31S 98º10W, under sail to Marquesas
Sailed dist. 406nm - Dist. to Marquesas 2550nm - Sailed dist. from Oslo 20458nm
The wind came during the first night. Even with reduces sails our speed was good. Several big fish was nearly caught during the first days, but lost. First this afternoon we got a 1,5 kg Dolphin/Dorado.
Today Heidi lost 500 meters of the only strong tread that fit into our sewing machine. The Captain was not pleased, and in his thoughts Heidi went the same way as the tread… Luckily we managed to get the tread back on board, hopefully the mainsail will be finished tomorrow.
DAY 1
7. July 2007 - kl 1200 (UTC -6). Position 00º44S 90º18W, Puerto Ayora - Galapagos
We left Academy Bay , Santa Cruz at 1200 today. The course was set SSW to Marquesas by engine because of no wind. After we had had a look at the main sail the Captain decided that the job we had done while we were at anchor at Santa Cruz were not satisfactory. A few days of more sewing is waiting us. When the wind is coming we will hoist the trysail and roll out the genoa until the job is done.

White Tip Reef Shark Turtle Bay at Santa Cruz Galapagos is not only rock and vulcanic stone
Galapagos, Ecuador- 28.June 2007 Pos 00º44S 90º18W sailed dist.from Oslo 20052nm
AMONG IGUANAS AND TURTLES
The last days we have seen a lot of new animals. The wildlife at Galapagos is rich and unique. We have also visited the “Norwegian Farm”, a remaining from the Norwegians that tried to settle here in the 1920's. The history of the many Norwegians that tried to settle in some of these islands was unknown to us, until we met the Norwegian boat Embla at Itaparica outside Salvador in Brazil about one year ago. From Embla we got a book about the Norwegian expeditions trying to settle in Galapagos. The book was actually the reason that we sailed this far north before turning west in the Pacific.
We have also visited the Darwin Institute, which among other things are running a breeding center for endangered turtles. The turtles are raised in a protected environment, and are set free when they are big enough to manage on their own. We have also spent some time diving and snorkelling, but due to the price level in a tourist mecca like Galapagos, not as much as we would like to.
Diesel, fresh water and fresh food and vegetables are now to be brought onboard during the next few days, before we throw of for Marquesas, 3000 nautical miles away.

A blind passenger accompanied
us at night on our way to
Galapagos. It looked like the
Blue Footed Bobby, except
from the feet's which where not
as blue as on the original.

 

Some of our new friends at Galapagos. Sea lion, Sally Light Foot and Marine Iguanas.
Galapagos, Ecuador- 28.June 2007 Pos00º44S 90º18W sailed dist.from Oslo 20052nm

yellow - sailed distance
blue - to come
GALAPAGOS
After 1846nm and 13 days we came to the island Santa Cruz 26.June in the afternoon. We have had a wonderful voyage with good wind (10-12m/s) except from the last day. When we came to Academy Bay we were met by a Giant Manta, about 3m. First Heidi thought that it was to parallel swimming dolphins, but it was only the tip of the Manta wing that was above the water. A few minutes later we saw a Hammerhead shark. We look forward to see more of the animals, fish and birds at Galapagos
. We also have a job to do on the mainsail before we haed for Marquesas
DAY 12
25. June 2007 - kl 0800 UTC -6. Position
03º28S 89º01W, under way to Galapagos
Sailed dist.
1678nm - Dist. to Galapagos 150nm - Saile dist. from Oslo 19904nm
We are closing in on the islands. Finally we have arrived in warmer waters. Washing the body with Pacific Ocean-water yesterday was a pleasure. The wind is still favorable and the fishing luck is still standing us by. 3 Dolphin/Dorado is caught since last report. We will probably drop the anchor in Puerto Ayora at Isla Santa Cruz some time tomorrow.
DAY 8
21. June 2007 - kl 0800 UTC -6. Position 10º07S 81º35W, under way to Galapagos
Sailed dist. 1068nm - Dist. to Galapagos 720nm - dist. from Oslo 19294nm
We still have favourable winds SSE. The sky is grey, not much that reminds of tropic waters. So far we have not seen much of either the sun or the stars. Though, the temperature is slowly getting warmer, the sea temperature is now 19ºC. We got our second Skipjack Tuna yesterday, 12¼ kg.Every morning we find squids and flyfish on deck.
DAY 6
19. June 2007 - kl 1200 UTC -4. Position 15º35S 79º31W, under way to Galapagos
Sailed dist. 725
nm - Dist. to Galapagos 1050 nm - Sailed dist. from Oslo 18951nm
It is still a bit chilly, even though we are in tropic waters. The short pants are still not in use. We caught a 3 kg Skipjack Tuna two days ago, that became a delicious dinner yesterday. The wind is still very good, mostly around 10 m/s from SSE.
DAY 3

16. June 2007 - kl 1200 UTC -4. Position 20º23S 73º52W, to Galapagos
Sailed dist. 269nm - Dist. to Galapagos 1480 nm - dist. from Oslo 18495nm
It feels good to be under sail again, and the wind has been perfect the last days. This morning we found 3 squids on deck, they had jumped onboard during the night. PEder has posted a "bottle mail".

DAY 1
14. June 2007 - kl 1200 UTC -4. Position 23º38S 70º23W, Antogagasta - CHILE
Sailed dist. 0nm - Dist. to Galapagos 1800 nm - Sailed dist. from Oslo 18226nm
Antogagasta, CHILE 7.June 2007 Pos23º38S 70º23W sailed dist. from Oslo 18206nm

INKA CULTURE & PERU
We are back in the boat after a fabulous trip to Peru . The last 10 days we have been travelling on land, with Macchupichu and Lake Titicaca as our main destination. We travelled by bus from Antofagasta via Arica ( Chile ), Tacna ( Peru ) and Ariquipe to the Inka capital in Cusco . The city has plenty of interesting sights. It was specially interesting for Heidi who is an architect.
From Cusco we took the train to Aqua Caliente and Macchupichu. A special train voyage, the train is driving in zigzag – otherwise it is to steep for the train to climb the hills.
Macchupichu is big. It was great to see what and how the Inka Indians lived 600 years ago. The city was first rediscovered in 1911. Today it is the biggest tourist attraction in Peru .
Back in Cusco we headed for Puno and Lake Titicaca , but unfortunately we had to return to the lowlands. If Peder was altitude sick or it was a bacteria we do not know – but we found it safest to return down.
Back in Antogagasta Lennart, from the Swedish boat Cabo de Hornos, has come to visit us. At the same time we are preparing for the voyage to Galapagos.

On the market in Pisac, a little
village close to Cusco.




Machu Picchu Inka wall in Cusco - with a 12 angel rocdk On our way down from Machu Picchu Miriam & Peder i Agua Caliente
Antogagasta, CHILE 24.May 2007 Pos23º38S 70º23W sailed dist. from Oslo 18206nm

THE SUMMER HAS ARRIVED -
The sailing was nice also from Higuerillas to Antofagasta – though it was little wind and no fish. For a short period we thought we were a litle short on diesel…
The temperature here is different from further south, even though the first words from the manager of Club de Yates de Antofagasta was, “this is not normal”. It was cloudy and chilly with “only” 17 degrees Celsius when we arrived Antofagasta . The city is supposed to be sunny and warm - “always”.
The Sealions are fighting for their territories on the breakwater only 5 meters away from the boat. The sound of the Sealions is rather particular – or funny. A mix between loud burp, cough and snore.
Antofagasta is the second largest city in Chile . “Everybody” lives in Santiago, the 6 million capital, it is said. It gives a meaning, as it is only 280.000 people living here…
The sailor Peder has accustomed to the watch system onboard. He has fully understanding that the Mate and the Captain have to work at night when the Ship is on the way - as long as he is allowed to go to bed at eight o'clock...

No success with the fishing
between Higuerillas and
Antofagasta. Something just
landed on deck...


The Captain has got a new hobby - so far only for calm days... The Norwegian National Day, the 17. of May, was celebrated before we threw of from Higuerillas. The sailor kept a good watch on the way, but there was only a few reports of unknown vessels...
Higuerillas, CHILE 14. May 2007 Pos 32º55S 71º32W sailed dist. from Oslo 17651nm

5 DEGREES WARMER IN THE SEA
Finally we decided to leave Club de Yates Valdivia . We had stayed longer than intended because of the weather, but the city, the yacht club and the people were very pleasant acquaintances. Valdivia is a city we would like to get to know even better.
A little more than 3 days sailing and 480nm with god southerly winds we got to Higuerillas, north of Valparaiso . Peder has found his sea legs and is ready for new experiences. He will sail wth us to New Zealand .
After Irene, Eivind´s mother, and Peder arrived and opened their suitcases, Empire is almost as good as new. It is only the chart plotter/radar that still take in some water. Empire is no fit for new long crossings.
In Club de Yates Higuerillas Eivind could finaly please his hunger for regatta, as crew on a local J-24 during the Saturday regatta. On Saturday Peder joined the optimist class for children. A little bit scary, but mostly fun…

Peder the Sailor.

Mi nombre Peder - sinco anos !

Pelikan.
Club-regatta onboard a J-24 outside Club de Yates Higuerillas. From Higuerillas the distances to many of the big cities are large...
Valdivia, CHILE 2.May 2007 Position 39º48S 73º15W sailed dist. from Oslo 17166nm

FUNDO CHACAIPULL
We picked up our new crew in Santiago by car. Luckily the road conditions in Chile are good and the 850km each way went fast by. Along the road we passed enormous wine and fruit fields and in the distance we could see the Andes Mountains .
When we got back to Empire it was “Christmas”. With TAM Air it is allowed to bring 46 kilos of luggage pr person – we took off course advantage of that. The rudder is no back in place with a new lower rudder bearing, A lot of other things is also fixed or replaced.
The last days we have been cowboys on Maggy and Ian Staples´farm, Fundo Chacaipull. They have cows, ponies (full size), sheep and honey production on their farm. Maggy and Ian are former long distance sailors. They have written one of the guide books we have used along the Chilean coast. We had a very pleasant stay with a charming and lovely host.

Peder the Sailor has signed on
Empire and has already found his
favorite spot in the bow.

Irene on the back of Corral at the farm Fundo Chacaipull Riding along the river Rio San Pedro outside Valdivia The cows at the farm was as curious at Peder as he on them
Valdivia, CHILE 18.April 2007 Position 39º48S 73º15W sailed dist. from Oslo 17155nm

The HARBOUR IS CLOSED
Because of yesterdays delay we have decided to wait for Peder here in Valdivia.

Even though Valdivia is a very pleasant city, the weather has not been on our side the last week. We have looked at gribfiles and weather forecasts every day - but the big low would not move south as we hoped for.
Finally today, both we and Empire were ready to sail. The forecast looked good – wind from southwest and decreasing seas. The only thing missing was a new zarpe from the Chilean armada.
To get a new zarpe was more difficult than we thought. The armada did not agree with the Captain that the weather was good, to sail north. They have “closed” the harbour and Bahia Corral for both small and big ships. We will not get a new zarpe today – maybe tomorrow. In Chile it does not help to argue that you are the Captain and responsible for the boat and crew.

PingPong champion Heidi,
Kapteinen is exercising hard to
get revenge

Heidi at the local marked, fantastic grapes, fruits and vegetables to reasonable prices Chile is more than good wine. Samples from Kunstmann - the local brewery Eivind is looking at the chilli on the local tuesday marked in Valdivia
Valdivia, CHILE 13. April 2007 Pos 39º48S 73º15W sailed dist. from Oslo 17155nm

TEMPORARY IMPORT-PAPERS IN BOX

The new temporary import license for Empire came onboard yesterday. In our Easter-holidays we got new 90 days visa by passing the border. We are only waiting for the huge low-pressure in the Pacific to vanish, before we can sail north to Valapariso.
Club the Yates Valdivia is a very nice yacht club. In addition to all the friendly people in the yacht club, we have met other sailing yachts on long voyaging. 2 Canadian and one Swiss sailboat on their way south, is among them. Everybody's experiences are shared, so that we all can get prepared for the next leg.
We hope that the weather will change, so we will get to Valparaiso in time to meet our visitors there. We are looking forward to get visitors, and Peder is signing on to be crew onboard Empire …

Sealion waiting for lunch at
the fishmarket in Valdiva.

The Monitor had to go to work when the autopilt died The fishmarked in Valdivia An early morning in Rio Valdivia
Valdivia, CHILE 2. April 2007 Pos 39º48S 73º15W sailed dist. from Oslo 17155nm

HAPPY EASTER HOLIDAY

From Puerto Montt to Valdivia we had nice sailing in good winds. We had a little “down” when the autopilot broke down. Eivind tried to fix it with the electric welder, but without success. Valdivia is a small, nice city with kind and helpful people.
The Fishmarket in the city is worth a visit. The fish-waste goes strait in the river, were the sea-lions are waiting… A pretty effective renovation-system…
Our visum in Chile are expiring soon. Instead of paying 100 US$ each, we take the bus to Bariloche , Argentina . A little “Easter Vacation”, before we sail further north to Vina del Mar and Valparaiso . In Valparaiso we will have visitors onboard – we are looking forward to meet them…

Finally - the weather we have
dreamt about.
Puerto Montt, CHILE 27.Mar 2007 Pos 41º24S 72º58W sailed dist. from Oslo 16928nm

VALDIVIA - next...
It has been lovely with electricity, freshwater, other people and “marina-life”, after 2 months in “no man's land”. But we do look forward to move on again.
The plan was to leave Puerto Montt on Tuesday. No as we are in civilized areas the bureaucracy is bigger. It takes at least two days to get a new zarpe. Off course, only formalities, but we have to wait for the right stamps on the right papers. Wednesday or Thursday we hope to be on our way.
Empire is refilled with tinned food and other “long-lasting stuff”. More have to be filled up before we head north-west, but that we can do further north. It is still some weeks before we live this continent…

Empire - polished, clean & shiny
- almost like new

"El Trauco" - the ghostship who sails under water and against the wind. Another project onboard - extencion a locker in tje bunkbed cabin. Local transport in Puerto Montt - it is a challenge to jump on the right bus. WiFi at the dock in the marina, after weeks without "contactt" it is great with Skype & web.
Puerto Montt, CHILE 23.Mar 2007 Pos 41º24S 72º58W sailed dist. from Oslo 16928nm

HAPPY BIRTDAY, PEDER !
You are now 5 years old, and a BIG BOY !

One week with washing and polishing, both inside and outside, is finished. Empire is back in shape – shiny as new. One year has passed since the last “spring”-shine up, and it was absolutely necessary. We have sailed 9428nm since then…
Muscles that have been a sleep for a while, has woken up. It is absolutely a good thing for our bodies to do some hard work…
In the beginning of next week we will sail further north, towards Valdivia . First we have to fill up with diesel and some more food. Maybe we also get the chance to se some more of Puerto Montt, too.
Yaghan, the Swedish boat with Helené and Arnbe onboard, have been in Puerto Montt for some weeks. They threw off today. The course was set west, first towards Robinson Crusoe Islands. We will probably meet again in New Zealand.

Empire - that it was necessary
with a mayor cleaning, is not
difficult to see...

Pictures from Peder´s 3 last yoyages with Empire - we look forward to see you again
Puerto Montt, CHILE 22.Mar 2007 Pos 41º24S 72º58W sailed dist. from Oslo 16928nm

MARINA del SUR
We are back in urban areas. The distance we have been sailing from Puerto Williams, is comparable with the distance from the Swedish border via Oslo , around the coast of Norway to Grense Jacobs Elv at the Russian border. The last leg from the island Mechuque to Puerto Montt was sailed yesterday and the water was smooth as a mirror.
The last 8 weeks has given us great nature experiences in the Chilean part of Patagonia. We have experienced everything from storm to very calm weather, and the temperatures have been varying from summer temperatures to almost winter temperatures. We have been motorsailing many of the days, but we also had great sailing. Spinnakersailing in the Beagle Canal was one of the highlights.
We are now looking forward to meet other people, to take a warm freshwater-shower , and to eat something else but tinned food. Empire also deserves some essential maintenance, before we head further north. One year has passed since last time she got a real “spring-shine-up”, so we have enough to put our fingers on to.
The food stocks onboard also have to be refilled. The Patagonia-sailing has finished a lot of the stocked tinned food… Maybe we also get some time to act like tourists in Puerto Montt, before we sail on.

Empire in Canal Moraleda
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, PEDER !

In 1 day you are 5 years old.
A great day in Canal Darwin Local fishingboat Palafitos housing at Isla Chiloé
Kanal Moraleda, CHILE 4. Mars 2007 44º44S 73º34W sailed dist. from Oslo 16648nm

KANAL MORALEDA, ISLA CUPTANA
Several days with sunshine – we can hardly remember last time. The temperature is getting higher as we sail north - closer to the tropics.
We crossed Golfo de Penas in a good SW wind. Great sailing out to the Pacific and in Bahia Darwin, back to the “safe” sheltered waters.
In Puerto Aguirre, a small fishing village with a population of 1200, we planned to fill diesel. But after new calculations the Captain has found out that we will make it, the last 250 nm to Puerto Montt, with what we have onboard. We filled up with fresh tomatoes, carrots and avocado. The fresh food stock onboard was pretty empty after 6 weeks in “no-man's-land”. With lots of creativity we make outstanding meals from tinned food. We do not serve cold corned beef onboard this ship!
Today it is raining again and we are at anchor. It is baking-day for the Mate with bread, pizza and cake on the menu. For the Captain it has been educational-day, reading some user manuals closely to fine-adjust some of the equipment onboard.
Next time you read news from Empire we will probably be back in the civilization.

Several 100m of rope is useful
at anchor in Patagonia

NB! We do not have the
possibility to read mail the next
weeks, but can be reached on

satelitt tlf 0088 162 143 7797

Empire at anchor in Puerto Sergio, Isla Smith Puerto Aguirre, fishing village with 1200 inhb. "Spring cleaning" onboard Empire
Kanal Messier, CHILE 23. Feb 2007 Pos 47º49S 74º37W sailed dist. from Oslo 16375nm

KANAL MESSIER, ISLA ZEALOUS
So far we can count the sailboats we have met on our way north on one hand. But lots of dolphins, sea lions, birds and whales. The amount of mosquitoes has luckily decreased the last days.
We let the anchor go in bays and inlets more beautiful than the previous.
We were impressed by the glacier Ventesqiero Pio XI . It is 3,5km wide and 50m high by the sea. It made a lot of noise when big ice blocks fell into the sea. When we passed the smaller ice bits we could hear the sparkling sound.
Puerto Eden is the “biggest” place we have seen in five weeks. 173 people lives here and the ferry drops by twice a week. No cars, no streets – a footbridge of wood act as the road and connects the place. Here lives fishermen with their families, lots of dogs and some chickens. Even though we have not been to the supermarket in five weeks, Empire is better equipped than the shop in Puerto Eden.
The bay Golfo de Penas is next and 200nm of open sea before we again can sail in sheltered waters behind Bahia Darwin.

Empire in front of one of the
bigest glaciers in Patagonia

NB! We do not have the
possibility to read mail the next
weeks, but can be reached on

satelitt tlf 0088 162 143 7797

An early morning living Caleta Moonlight Shadow Small icebites from the glacierIsbiter in Seno Eyre, Ventesqiero Pío XI Canal Wide, on our way to the caleta of the day
Canal Pitt, CHILE 12. Feb 2007 Pos 50º41S 74º13W sailed dist. from Oslo 16122nm

CANAL PITT
One thing is for sure – the nature in the Chilean Canals and fjords is magnificent and beautiful. As soon as the sun is shining and the temperature is rising above the normal 10 degrees Celsius, we forget all the grey and rainy days.
Historical known waters as the Beagle Canal and the Magellan Strait , and not as well known waters as Paso del Mar, Canal Smyth and Canal Sarmiento are now behind us.
The days have been mostly grey, so far. More annoying is though the huge amount of small flies. They are eating us as soon as we are getting closer to the shore. When we have dropped the anchor in the evening, we have to batten down the hatches, light the mosquito-spirals and vacuum clean the flies that still are onboard, before we can calm down. The Captain has more than 50 itching bites on his body, and the mate probably the same…
Though – we forget all this when the sun is shining and we can hoist the sails. Then we enjoy the everyday life, and think that we are happy that can be exactly here.

Reacently caught old ice on
its way to the drink...
Yaghan og Empire anchored i Bahia Romance, Seno Pia. Spinnaker sailing in the Beagle Canal. The Beagle Canal is also known as the "Avenue of Glaciers".
Magellan, CHILE 2. Feb 2007 Pos 53º53S 72º19W sailed dist.from Oslo 15878nm
MAGELLAN STRAIT
On the 3.day in a row Empire is stuck because of a storm blowing in the Pacific.
We are well tied up with to lines ashore and to anchors, one in the bow and one aft.
Last Tuesday we had hoped to advance some further west and weighed the anchor
early in the morning. After 8 hours of sailing we had only 2 nm left to the next anchor
spot. The wind was blowing at 56 knots and we did not do any progress. It is difficult
to tack in the wind and sea in the narrow canals and the engine was not much help.
We turned, and after two hours we were back where we started after a fast return with
10-11 knots an average.
In the canals whales, sea lions and dolphins are waiting for us and beautiful nature –
when it is not blowing too much…
Beagle Canal, CHILE 24. Jan 2007 Pos 54º47S 69º37W sailed dist.from Oslo 15597nm

The BEAGLE CHANEL - the Avenue of Glaciers
Finally we threw off for the Chilean fjords. We are looking forward to what we think will
be the nomadic sailing in the canals, towards Puerto Montt and the Pacific Ocean .
But it is sad to say “see you again somewhere” to many of our sailing friends, that
now set their course in other directions. Maybe we will meet some of them again in another ocean?
After stocking up on food and beverages in Ushuaia, the boat is lying deep in the water. We sat off, from last civilized place for a while, at Saturday. It will probably be 6 to 8 weeks until we again will go alongside a pier. The weather has been on our side these
first days. The sails have been up for nice downwind-sailing. Even the spinnaker has
been flying.
The nature in the Beagle Canal is beautiful. It looks a bit similar to the fjords in the
northern part of Norway. Last afternoon we dropped the anchor in Seno Pia, one of the
fjords with a big glacier in the end. Sometimes the glaciers are roaring, but (luckily?)
we haven't seen any ice- blocks drop in the water, yet.

Ushuaia, ARGENTINA 14. Jan 2007 Pos 54º48S 68º18W sailed dist.from Oslo 15485nm

MICALVI YACHT CLUB, Puerto Williams – Chile

Cape Horn looks just like an ordinary rock. Anyway it feels special to have south of the famous rock in our own boat. We have sailed around Cape Horn both from west and east, in the Atlantic Ocean and in the Pacific. Heidi has been ashore, while the Captain took a bath in the cold water. We have not tried to pee in headwind jet…
It is said that you should not leave port on a Friday, we never learn… A little week ago, when we sailed from Ushuaia to Pt. Williams we realized that the work we had done on the rudder was not good enough. There are till some movements in the rudder. To much load can lead to a failure because of fatigue. We don't want to experience that in the Southern Ocean. We will not sail to the Antarctic this time. No we will continue our voyage north along the Chilean coast and fjords.

Cabo de Hornos
Cape Horn
Kapp Horn
Dusky Dolphins on the way to Cape Horn In the Beagle Channel Micalvi Yacht Club in Puerto Williams
Ushuaia, ARGENTINA 26. Des 2006 Pos 54º48S 68º18W sailed dist.from Oslo 15268nm

MERRY CHRISTMAS & A HAPPY NEW YEAR

We are writing 2007 and Empire is at the dock in Ushuaia. After a quick breakfast the first working day in the New Year, we were wondering where our anchor winch was. The transport company confirmed our consumptions – the winch will first arrive on Friday. In the meantime we have to wait, check up on the weather forecast and read about good anchor spots in the Antarctic.
The last day of 2006 Spirit of Sydney came to Ushuaia, aft3er 2 weeks in the Antarctic. Onboard was Endre Tangdal and 8 happy sail tourists. They had had a great tour with good weather most of the time. They could tell us about great sail- and nature experiences.
We look forward to set sail, and hop that the anchor winch soon will arrive.

Empire in Ushuaia
 
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